The other day my friend Eric invited me to a
matsuri. I just thought it
was going to be a typical matsuri
experience but it turned out to be something else entirely.
Eric's friend Jun was there and he grew up in the
area. He was telling us how the main mikoshi for this matsuri, the
portable temples that they carry around, was one of the biggest in the
country. It weighs over 4 tons!!!! Although that sounded
interesting I've seen lots of mikoshis being carried around so I wasn't
super interested.
But then he started telling us how important this was for people and how they
get into fights to try to carry it.
First we saw hundreds of police coming in. That was not that big a
deal although it may be the first time I've ever seen lots of police
gathered in one place in
Japan.
But, a few minutes later we saw the riot police show up with full
padding and all of them carrying plexiglass shields. That's when I
started to take it seriously.
Jun said that they are there to try to prevent people from jumping into
the center of the street to try to carry the mikoshi. I never did get
all the details but this particular mikoshi is shared by several groups.
All the groups have different outfits. While we were there we saw
guys in blue outfits, orange outfits, purple outfits, grey outfits and I'm
sure a few others.
As the mikoshi came down the street toward where we were standing the
police game by and announced that they would trounce anybody that jumped
into the street past the fence they had put up and so to please just be good
citizens and watch.
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I've been to this matsuri three different years and know a little bit about it because my spouse is from that area. I was there this year as well and was in the same crowd you were.
The "groups" you refer to are representatives of the various neighborhoods served by the Torigoe Shrine. Each neighborhood has their own outfits and their own mikoshi. I'm not sure how many neighborhoods there are -- maybe about a dozen. The first day of the matsuri each neighborhood starts off their mikoshi from the shrine around 7am and parades it around the neighborhood. This culminates in a trip to the shrine in the evening to get it blessed. During this time the big mikoshi is parked at the shrine for viewing.
The second day they bring out the big-ass mikoshi. It is paraded through the various neighborhoods during the entire day. So each neighborhood team gets a chance to carry it. I think the route is mostly the same except that every year the rotation changes. Hence in our neighborhood it comes by during the morning one year and the afternoon the next. This culminates in the return to the shrine in the evening which you witnessed. I think the neighborhood that immediately surrounds the shrine is the one that carries it in.
I don't think that every time the mikoshi tilted or almost fell was necessarily because people were getting into fights over it. But certainly people trying to switch in and out, getting tired, etc has something to do with it. And that fact that when people aren't carrying the mikoshi they mostly sit around all day drinking is a big factor in any fighting that may go on.
For those wishing to take pictures of this event, you can get very close in throughout the entire two days except that final push of the big mikoshi. The first night, I was right underneath the torii while they were bringing in the neighborhood mikoshi. Also as the big one is going through a neighborhood, you can usually get quite close. They have maps of the route so you can watch it pass, run to another point to watch, then repeat many times to try to get that quintessential picture if you like. Also, right around the shrine you'll find all the usual matsuri yatai (booths) selling food & toys. If you're in Tokyo during the first weekend of June, I highly recommend checking out this festival.
If you're interested, there are some pics of the Torigoe Matsuri at:
http://www.trekjapan.com/gal
lery/Kanto/Tokyo/Torigoe/
http://www.trekearth.com/gal
lery/Asia/Japan/Kanto/Tokyo/
Torigoe/